No matter the reason an aquarium needs to be moved, it’s an action most aquarists would prefer to avoid. In this article, we’ll guide you with general information on how to move an aquarium.

Unfortunately, avoiding the move is usually not an option.

Some aquarists take this opportunity to start fresh. They sell the entire aquarium system and use the money to set up a new marine tank. A good idea, maybe—but the old tank still needs to be moved. The advantage is when the buyer purchases the whole system, which is common, though they also face the headache of putting everything back together. Other aquarists will install a new system in the desired location and then move the contents of the old system directly to the new place, which makes things easier. The old system is then sold. Most aquarists, however, simply move their existing setup and don’t want to sell it.

There will always be challenges when moving an aquarium—it's inevitable. Two things that will help most are patience and detailed planning of every step.

If the move is due to a change of residence, the moving date should be known. Take plenty of time to plan, say two weeks in advance. Try to arrange with the new home's occupant for a date to move the aquarium before the furniture is moved. If that isn’t possible, try to schedule with the current home’s new occupant a date right after the move.

If the aquarium is moving to another location within the same house, still plan at least two weeks ahead.

The first check, especially for large tanks, is to ensure the floor in the new location can support the aquarium’s weight. Consider the weight of the saltwater, rocks, sand, and the aquarium itself.

You should make a checklist:

• Large water containers
  Aquarists should know the net volume of their system. You’ll need containers that can hold as much of this water as possible. This water is mature and should not be replaced entirely with fresh saltwater. Fish and other creatures can go into one or more of these containers if they’re big enough.

• Live rock
  If it’s a reef system, corals are probably attached to rocks. Place them in large containers so the corals are minimally stressed.

• System layout
  If it’s been a while since you set up your system, take note of how your aquascaping was arranged—it will help in reassembly.

• Vehicle size
  Estimate how much space you’ll need. More than one trip might be necessary, if that’s practical.

• Helpers
  Think about who can help carry heavy items like water containers, the tank, cylinders, etc.

• Action plan
  You need a coordinated set of steps. The tank obviously can’t be moved until most of the rock structure and saltwater are removed.

Once you’ve assessed the tank and decided on the number of water containers you can use, estimate how much freshly mixed saltwater you’ll need to top it off at the new location. Prepare a container for this and mix the saltwater one day in advance so it’s ready.

STEPS

1. Turn off and disassemble the lighting system.

2. Remove seawater from the tank until the level is near the top of the reef. Pour this water into your containers—don’t fill them to the top.

3. Carefully remove reef rocks and corals, placing them in containers to minimize stress. Try putting base rocks in one container and coral-covered rocks in another.

4. Once most of the reef is out, start catching fish and other animals. Catching fish with the reef still partially in place is hard—patience is key. They’ll probably escape a few times. Use two nets. Put the animals in containers as quickly as possible.

5. Remove as much remaining water as you can and store it in containers. Saltwater doesn’t cool quickly, but if the trip is long, consider insulation.

   • Don’t forget to turn off heaters before removing them—they must not run dry or overheat.

   • Discard any leftover water that can’t be transported. Don’t leave large amounts in the tank—it could compromise the tank’s integrity due to weight during transport.

6. Now it’s time for serious lifting. Move the tank (mostly empty) and disconnected equipment. Also move any CO₂ cylinders (if used). Be careful—these could be glass.

   • Place the tank and items on something supportive during transport, like thick foam padding.

7. Pack all other equipment. Don’t store heavy equipment inside the tank while moving—it adds dangerous stress.

Arrival at the New Location

• Position the aquarium in its final spot and pour in as much saved saltwater as possible, without exposing corals to air.

• Add rocks and then more water. Repeat this until the reef is back in place. Don’t overfill—leave room for adjustments.

• Add the live rock or any saved structures where you remember them being—but don’t worry about precision; you can fine-tune this later.

• Use the pre-mixed saltwater to fill the tank to the right level.

• Install the circulation pumps and heaters, and turn them on.

• Now, you can reintroduce the fish and other animals to the tank.

At this point, you can relax a little—the tank has heat, circulation, and filtration.

• Reconnect the CO₂ cylinder (if used), referring to your setup diagram.

• Reconnect all remaining equipment: protein skimmer, return pumps, etc.

• Once everything is ready, add more saltwater to reach the correct level.

  • If you have too much, use it for the next water change.

  • If you have too little, the system won’t suffer while you mix a new batch.

Don’t turn on the lights yet. Wait at least a full day—this reduces stress for the fish and corals.

Finally, check all systems are working properly and water levels are stable.

The steps above are a general guide for moving an aquarium.

An aquarist may ask: "But what about...?"
That’s why pre-planning is crucial, and it's wise to consult with professionals.
Consider the services of CoralFarm.